From April 1, 2025, new car tax costs in the UK will change significantly:

1. Zero-emission cars will pay £10 for the first year, then £195 annually thereafter.
2. Cars emitting 1-50g/km CO2 will pay £110 for the first year.
3. Cars emitting 51-75g/km CO2 will pay £130 for the first year.
4. Cars emitting 76g/km CO2 and above will see first-year rates double from current levels.
5. The standard rate for most cars from the second year will be £195 annually.
6. Cars with a list price over £40,000 will pay an additional £410 annually for five years.
7. Electric vans will move to the rate for petrol and diesel light goods vehicles, currently £335 a year for most vans.

These changes aim to encourage the adoption of zero-emission vehicles while increasing tax revenue for the government from higher-emission vehicles.

Article in conjunction with UK lender elogbookloan

Some types of vehicles are ‘exempt’ from paying for vehicle tax, although even if you do not have to pay, you still have to tax your vehicle. 

You do not have to pay vehicle tax on these vehicles –

Older vehicles

Vehicles made before 1st January 1979 are exempt.

Steam vehicles

Steam-powered vehicles are exempt from vehicle tax.

Disabled persons vehicle

You can claim a disability exemption when applying for vehicle tax.

If the vehicle is no longer being used by a disabled person, then the exemption must be removed from the vehicle. 

Disabled passenger vehicle

Vehicles (not ambulances) used by organisations that provide transport for disabled people are exempt.

Electric vehicles

The electric vehicle must not need to be connected to a source of power when moving. The electricity must come from an external source or storage battery.

Electric vehicles costing more than £40,000

You will still have to pay an extra tax for a vehicle costing more than £40,000 if it was registered after 31 March 2017.

Mobility scooters and powered wheelchairs

To be exempt, their maximum speed cannot exceed 8mph on the road, and they must also be fitted with a speed limiter, limiting their speed to 4mph on footways.

Vehicles used for horticulture, agriculture and forestry

Tractors, off road agricultural vehicles, and limited use vehicles used for short journeys (not more than 1.5 kilometres) on public roads between land that is occupied by the same person.

Received a DVLA fine? Here are the things you can do about it –

If you need an MOT to tax your vehicle, find your local MOT garage.

For SORN to be valid your vehicle must remain in the UK.

In certain circumstances a tester may refuse to test your motorbike.

If before, or even during the test, it cannot be completed for any reason listed below, the test will be stopped, or the motorbike failed.

If you need written confirmation of why the test could not be carried out or completed, the test will be registered and a VT30 form will be issued detailing the reasons why.

You can appeal an MOT test or complain to the Driver and Vehicle Standards Agency (DVSA) if you think an MOT test result is wrong.

You can also take your own action against an MOT test centre through Trading Standards, personal legal proceedings or reporting the centre to the police.

The DVSA will not help you take action against a centre.

If your vehicle failed the MOT

Discuss your test result with the MOT test centre before anyone starts repairs. You can then appeal against the result if you still think it’s wrong.

1. Fill in the MOT complaint form and email it to DVSA within 14 working days of the test.
2. DVSA will offer you an appointment within 5 days to check your vehicle again. You will need to pay the full test fee again.
3. You will get some or all of the fee back if your appeal is successful.

Do not have any repairs or replacements made until the appeal process has finished, as it can stop your appeal being investigated.

If your vehicle passed the MOT

If you think your vehicle should have failed, follow these steps.

1. Fill in the same above MOT complaint form and email it to DVSA within 3 months of the test if it is a corrosion-related problem, or within 28 days for any other defects.
2. DVSA will offer you an appointment within 5 days to check your vehicle again. You do not need to pay.
3. You’ll get an inspection report listing any vehicle defects and advisory items.

Ways to send your complaint

By Email: 
csccomplaints (at) dvsa.gov.uk

By post:
DVSA 
The Ellipse 
Padley Road 
Swansea 
SA1 8AN

Once you find the right local MOT car garage the MOT will test important items on your vehicle to check that they meet all road safety legal standards.

The test will not cover the condition of these items:

• engine
• clutch
• gearbox

MOT car checks

Body, vehicle structure and general items

To check that:

• specific areas are free from excessive corrosion or damage
• no sharp edges are present that may cause injury

Towbars

Towbars are inspected for:

• secureness
• condition
• inappropriate repairs or modification

The MOT tester will also check that:

• the 13 pin electrical socket is working correctly
• the speedometer is in good working order
• the engine mountings are secure

Fuel system

To check that:

• there are no leaks
• the pipes and hoses are secure and in good condition
• the fuel cap fastens and seals securely

Your car keys should be available as the fuel cap will need to be opened.

Exhaust emissions

The vehicle will be inspected, depending on the age and fuel type of the vehicle, to check that it meets the rules for exhaust emissions.

Diesel vehicles

The MOT tester can refuse to test your vehicle if they think that the smoke test may damage your engine.

You should tell them at the start of the MOT if you think this may happen.

To reduce the possibility of damage and increase the chances of passing, you should:

• keep your vehicle maintained at all times
• have the camshaft drive belt replaced at the recommended intervals
• go for the MOT with a fully warmed up engine – it will produce less smoke and is safer to test
• not tamper with the governor settings

Exhaust system

To check that:

• it’s secure and complete
• a catalyst isn’t missing where one was fitted as standard
• it’s without serious leaks and not too noisy

Seatbelts

To check that:

• all mandatory seatbelts are in place
• they are suitable for the vehicle
• they are in a good condition
• they work properly
• they are attached securely

The malfunction indicator lamps (MILs) or dashboard warning lights will be checked for the:

• air bags
• seatbelt pretensioners (which remove the slack from a seatbelt in the event of a collision)
• seatbelt load limiters (which release a small amount of belt when it’s too tight)

Seats

To check that:

• the driver’s seat can be adjusted
• all seats are securely fitted and that seat backs can be fixed in the upright position

Doors

To check that:

• the latch is secure in the closed position
• the front doors open from inside and outside the vehicle
• the rear doors open from outside the vehicle
• hinges and catches are secure and in good condition

Mirrors

To check for the minimum number of mirrors, their condition and security. Indirect vision devices will also inspected.

Load security

To check that the boot or tailgate can be closed properly.

Brakes

To check:

• their condition, including inappropriate repairs or modifications
• their operation and performance (the efficiency test) – the wheels and trims aren’t removed as part of the test
• the anti-lock braking system (ABS) and electronic stability control (ESC) (where fitted)

The MILs or dashboard warning lights will also be checked for the ABS, ESC, electronic park brake and brake fluid warning lights.

Tyres and wheels

To check for:

• condition
• security
• tyre size and type
• tread depth

Spare tyres or wheels are not inspected.

Vehicles first used on or after 1 January 2012 will be checked to make sure the tyre pressure monitoring system (TPMS) MIL is working.

Registration plates

To check for:

• condition
• secure attachment
• colour
• characters correctly formed and spaced

Lights

To check:

• their condition
• operation, including high intensity discharge (HID) and light emitting diode (LED)
• the headlamps for cleaning, self levelling and security
• headlamp aim
• main beam warning light working

Bonnet

To check that it closes securely.

Wipers and washers

To check that they work properly so the driver has a clear view of the road.

Windscreen

To check for:

• condition
• the driver’s view of the road

Horn

To check:

• that it works properly
• it’s suitable for the vehicle

Steering and suspension

To check:

• their condition
• steering oil level
• they work correctly
• for inappropriate repairs or modification including corrosion to power steering pipes or hoses
• that the steering lock mechanism works properly

The MILs or dashboard warning lights will also be checked for the electronic power steering and steering lock.

Vehicle identification number (VIN)

The VIN will be on vehicles first used on or after 1 August 1980. Your car will be inspected to check that a single VIN is displayed, except on multistage build vehicles (eg van conversion, BMW, Alpina etc).

Electrical

Visible electrical wiring and the battery will be checked.

The MOT will test important items on your motorcycle to check that they meet all road safety standards.

The test will not cover the condition of the following 3 items:

• engine
• clutch
• gearbox

Motorcycle MOT checks

Lights

To check:

• their condition
• that they work properly
• that they’re secure
• that the headlamp(s) are the correct colour
• the rear lights, indicators and reflectors

The headlamp(s) will also be checked to see if the aim is correct.

Steering and suspension

To check:

• their condition
• that forks, handlebars, grips mountings, head bearings, swinging arm, shock absorbers and damping effect etc are secure and work properly

Wheels and tyres

To check:

• their condition
• that they’re secure
• the size and type
• correct fitment
• the tread depth
• the valve condition

Frame

To check:

• that it’s free from cracks
• for damage
• for distortion
• for corrosion which is likely to affect the steering or braking

Braking

To check:

• the condition
• the operation and performance (the efficiency test)
• the brake controls

Exhaust system

To check:

• it’s secure and complete
• it’s not too noisy

Fuel system

To check:

• for leaks
• the security of its components

Seats

To check:

• for the presence of a motorcycle rider’s seat
• that any seat is attached securely

Wheel alignment

To check for the correct alignment of front and rear wheels.

Motorcycle sidecar (if fitted)

To check:

• for secure attachment
• alignment
• the suspension
• the wheel bearings
• wheel alignment
• the lights and tyres

Horn

To check:

• that it works properly
• it’s suitable for the motorcycle

Registration plates, vehicle identification and frame numbers

To check that they’re present and legible.

Drive chain and sprocket

To check:

• that the chain isn’t too loose, tight or worn
• that the sprockets aren’t too worn
• that the chain guard is secure

Throttle

To check that it works properly.

Clutch lever

To check that it isn’t so bent, damaged or shortened that it can’t easily be used.

Footrests

To check that they’re present and fitted securely.

Find a motorcycle MOT testing station and garage

Certain types of vehicle are exempt from getting an MOT.
If your vehicle is on this list then you should fill out the ‘V112 MOT exemption’ form available from the DVLA which also allows you to tax the vehicle or apply for tax exemption.

Exempt Vehicles

(a) Motor tractor.
(b) Track-laying vehicle.
(c) Articulated vehicle that is not a lorry or bus (including bendy buses).
(d) Works trucks.
(e) Invalid carriages weighing no more than 306kg when unloaded.
(f) Vehicle used only to pass from land occupied by the person keeping the vehicle to other land occupied by them, and not travelling on the road for more than a total of 6 miles a week.
(g) Hackney carriage or private-hire vehicle licensed by local authorities authorised to check the roadworthiness of this vehicle.
(h) Hackney carriage licensed by Transport for London.
(i) Vehicle provided for police purposes and maintained in an approved workshop.
(j) (GB only) Goods vehicle powered by electricity, and first registered before 1 March 2015.
(k) Tram.
(L) Trolley vehicle that is not an auxiliary trolley vehicle (auxiliary trolley vehicles are vehicles that are adapted to run from power provided from a source on board).
(m) Vehicles authorised to be used on the road by a Special Types General Order or a Vehicle Special Order, unless the order specifies otherwise.
(n) Vehicles used only on certain islands that do not have a bridge, tunnel, ford or other suitable way for motor vehicles to be conveniently driven to a road in any part of the UK.
(o) Vehicles with a maximum design speed of less than 15.5 miles per hour.
(p) A vehicle constructed for gully or street cleansing or refuse disposal, which either:
• is a three-wheeled vehicle, or
• has an inside track width of less than 810 millimetres.
(q) (GB only) A public service vehicle having a date of manufacture before 1st January 1960 and which has not been substantially changed.
(r) (GB only) A vehicle other than a public service vehicle registered or manufactured 40 years ago and which has not been substantially changed in the last 30 years.

What does ‘substantially changed’ mean?

A vehicle where the technical characteristics of the main components have changed in the last 30 years. These components (other than for motorbikes) are the chassis or monocoque bodyshell (including any sub-frames), engine and axle and running gear (alteration of the type and/or method of suspension or steering).
However, the following changes are not considered substantial:
• Chassis or monocoque bodyshell (including any subframes) – replacements of the same pattern as the original.
• Engine – alternative cubic capacities of the same basic engine and alternative original equipment engines (if the number of cylinders in an engine is different from the original it is unlikely to be alternative original equipment).
• Axles and running gear – changes made to improve efficiency, safety or environmental performance.
• Changes that are made to preserve a vehicle (must be when original type parts are no longer available).
• Changes of a type that have been made when the type of vehicle was in production or in general use (within ten years of the end of production).
• For vehicles that have been used as commercial vehicles, changes which were being made when they were used commercially.

Q-prefix, kit cars and reconstructed classic vehicles

The following vehicles (including motorbikes) are to be considered as substantially changed, unless they are taxed as an “historic vehicle” and have not been modified during the previous 30 years:
• A vehicle issued with a registration number with a ‘Q’ prefix.
• A kit car assembled from components from different makes and model of vehicle.
• A reconstructed classic vehicle as defined by DVLA guidance.
• A kit conversion, where a kit of new parts is added to an existing vehicle, or old parts are added to a kit of a manufactured body, chassis or monocoque bodyshell changing the general appearance of the vehicle.

Here is what you can do, to get your car ready for any harsh winter condition:

Winter tyres

Swapping your normal tyres with winter ones is one of the most important steps to prepare your car for winter. It is not just for snow, the performance of any standard tyre drops dramatically when temperatures drop below 7°C, with less grip, and longer stopping distances than winter tyres. Try to get the tyres fitted before it starts snowing, and if you are using previous winter tyres, check the tread first.

Wiper blades

Snow, ice and mud are what your wipers will be dealing with over the winter, so check that the blades are in good shape, and that they do not smear over the windshield. If needed, buy some new blades and try to avoid cheap no-name brands.

Windshield washer fluid

The washer fluid bottle is usually hidden deep in the engine bay making it difficult to check the level, so if you drive a lot, buy a large 5 litre container rated for winter weather. As with wiper blades, avoid the cheap unknown brands, as some have been known to freeze when sprayed on the windshield, despite being rated at -25°C or similar.

Engine coolant

This is one is a must. You can get a good coolant tester online for less than £10, or you can visit your local garage and have your coolant checked. If topping up, check the colour of your coolant – blue, yellow or pink and make sure that you get the right type of antifreeze to match, as it should not be mixed up.

Battery

Visually check for any traces of corrosion on battery terminals and clean with a wire brush if necessary. If your battery is a ‘wet-cell’ type, meaning it is filled with water, check the water level of each cell, and top it up with distilled water.

At the end…

Give your car a thorough wash – not only inside and outside, but also the underside, washing inside wheel arches and other hard-to-reach places. If you notice any trace of corrosion or deep paint damage, have it repaired, as it is likely to get much worse quicker, due to the winter weather.